Lowering the rider footrests is one of the most worthwhile comfort upgrades for an R1100S that is used properly.

The standard position is sporting and works well for shorter rides. But for taller riders, ageing knees or long days in the saddle, the knee angle can feel unnecessarily tight. A lowering kit that moves the original pegs roughly 35 mm down and 20 mm rearward gives noticeably more room without making the bike look modified.

The best kits retain the BMW footrest assemblies, original rubber-covered pegs and standard controls. From a distance, the bike still looks completely right.

This guide covers installation of the simple lowering brackets shown here.

The job is straightforward on the gear-selector side. The brake side is equally manageable on a non-ABS bike, but ABS-equipped bikes require extra care because the rigid brake pipe needs gentle repositioning to clear the relocated bracket.

What the Kit Does

The brackets reposition the complete rider-footrest assemblies:

• Approximately 35 mm lower
• Approximately 20 mm rearward
• Original BMW folding pegs retained
• Original gear lever and brake pedal retained
• No cutting of frame or bodywork required

Owners who have used comparable R1100S lowering kits generally report that even a 30–35 mm drop makes a disproportionately large difference to leg room and long-distance comfort.

The trade-off is reduced cornering clearance. For normal road riding and touring, that is usually a sensible compromise. For track use or riders who regularly scrape pegs, it may not be.

Before You Start

Support the motorcycle securely on its centre stand or a workshop lift.

You will need:

• Allen keys or sockets for the footrest-plate fasteners
• Torque wrench
• Spanners for the gear linkage
• Thread-locking compound where appropriate
• Marker pen or paint pen
• Clean rags
• Good lighting

Before removing anything:

1. Photograph both sides of the bike.
2. Mark the original gear-linkage adjustment.
3. Check that the lowering brackets are left/right specific.
4. Compare the supplied hardware with the original mounting points.
5. Check that the original folding footrests move freely.

The BMW workshop manual specifies 21 Nm for the footrest assembly to main-frame fasteners. Use this value when reinstalling the original footrest assembly through the lowering bracket, unless the bracket manufacturer specifies a different torque for its own supplied hardware.

Left Side: Gear Selector

The left side is the easier half of the installation.

The complete footrest and gear-selector assembly moves as one unit. You do not need to dismantle the footrest mechanism itself.

Step 1: Remove the complete left footrest assembly

Remove the mounting bolts holding the left rider-footrest assembly to the main frame.

Take the whole assembly away carefully, including:

• Rider footrest
• Gear lever
• Shift linkage
• Footrest plate
• Return spring and related hardware

Do not disturb the gear-linkage adjustment more than necessary at this stage.

Step 2: Fit the lowering bracket to the frame

Position the left lowering bracket against the original mounting points on the frame.

Install the supplied mounting bolts loosely first. Do not fully tighten them until you are certain the bracket sits flat and the assembly will align correctly.

The brackets are handed. Check that the larger machined holes and threaded holes face the correct way before tightening.

Image placement: Use the photo showing both bare lowering brackets and hardware.

Step 3: Refit the original footrest assembly

Bolt the complete original footrest assembly to the lowering bracket.

Tighten the footrest assembly mounting bolts to 21 Nm.

Check that:

• The peg folds freely.
• The gear lever clears the frame and bracket.
• The gear linkage does not bind.
• The side stand and centre stand still move normally.
• No wiring or hoses are trapped.

Image placement: Use the photo showing the finished left-side installation.

Caption:

The original BMW peg assembly is retained and refitted to the lowering bracket at the new position.

Step 4: Adjust the gear linkage

Once the footrest assembly has moved lower and rearward, the gear lever will no longer sit in the ideal position.

Lengthen the shift rod until the gear pedal sits naturally beneath your boot in the new footrest position.

The adjustment is simple:

1. Loosen the locknuts at the shift rod.
2. Rotate the rod to lengthen it.
3. Test the lever position while sitting on the bike.
4. Tighten the locknuts once the lever sits naturally below your boot.

Because the lowering bracket adds some horizontal spacing, the original shift rod will sit at a slightly greater angle than before.

In practice, this does not usually affect operation. The linkage still works correctly and shifts normally.

For the neatest possible geometry, you can fit a small spacer or extended linkage arrangement between the ball joint and the lever, as shown in the photo below. This is optional rather than essential.

Final check on the left side

Before moving on:

• Select every gear with the engine off.
• Confirm the lever does not touch the bracket or frame.
• Check the linkage moves smoothly through its full travel.
• Confirm all locknuts are tight.
• Verify that the footrest folds correctly.

Right Side: Brake Pedal

The right side uses the same basic principle: remove the complete footrest assembly, fit the lowering bracket, and reinstall the original assembly in the new position.

The difference is the rear brake system.

On a non-ABS bike, this is straightforward.

On an ABS-equipped bike, the rigid brake pipe from the ABS system can interfere with the new location of the footrest assembly. It needs to be repositioned carefully to create clearance.

Do not force it. Do not kink it. Do not disconnect it unless you are prepared to bleed the rear brake system correctly afterwards.

Non-ABS Bikes

Step 1: Remove the complete right footrest assembly

Remove the bolts holding the right footrest and brake-pedal assembly to the frame.

Withdraw the complete assembly carefully.

Keep an eye on:

• Rear brake pedal position
• Master-cylinder pushrod
• Brake-light-switch operation
• Brake hose routing

Step 2: Fit the lowering bracket

Position the right lowering bracket against the original frame mounting points.

Install the bracket loosely first, then refit the complete BMW footrest/brake-pedal assembly onto it.

Tighten the footrest assembly mounting bolts to 21 Nm.

Step 3: Check brake-pedal operation

Before riding, check that:

• The brake pedal returns fully.
• The rear brake is not dragging.
• The brake-light switch activates correctly.
• The master-cylinder pushrod is not held under pressure.
• The pedal can be operated naturally from the new peg position.

Do not adjust the rear brake pedal merely to make it lower unless you understand the master-cylinder pushrod relationship. A pushrod that is adjusted too long can prevent the master cylinder from fully releasing pressure and cause the rear brake to drag as the system warms up.

ABS-Equipped Bikes

The installation is broadly the same, but there is one extra complication.

The rigid brake pipe running from the ABS unit toward the rear brake assembly can interfere with the relocated footrest bracket.

To create clearance, the metal line needs to be carefully reshaped by hand.

This is awkward but possible.

Step 1: Remove the right footrest assembly

Remove the complete right-hand footrest and brake-pedal block as described above.

Do not disconnect the brake pipe.

Step 2: Test-fit the lowering bracket

Offer the lowering bracket up to the frame and identify where the rigid ABS brake pipe touches or comes too close to the new bracket position.

Do this slowly. The goal is to understand where clearance is needed before bending anything.

Step 3: Carefully reposition the rigid brake line

Gently bend the metal brake pipe only enough to create safe clearance.

The pipe must not:

• Kink
• Flatten
• Rub against the bracket
• Sit under tension
• Touch the exhaust or moving suspension parts
• Contact the footrest assembly through its movement range

Use both hands and make small adjustments. Do not bend the line sharply at one point.

Once the bracket and footrest assembly are fitted, inspect the pipe from several angles. There should be visible clearance throughout.

Image placement: Use the close-up of the right-hand installation where the brake line and bracket are visible.

Step 4: Refit and tighten

Once clearance is correct, refit the complete right-hand footrest assembly to the lowering bracket.

Tighten the footrest assembly mounting bolts to 21 Nm.

Then confirm:

• Brake pedal returns fully.
• Rear wheel turns freely with no brake drag.
• Brake-light switch works.
• Brake pipe has clearance.
• No fitting, hose or pipe is under tension.
• The peg folds normally.

Final Setup

Once both sides are fitted, sit on the bike wearing your normal riding boots.

Check your natural foot position.

The gear lever should be easy to reach without lifting your foot excessively. The brake pedal should sit where you can find it instinctively, without needing to rotate your ankle awkwardly.

Then carry out a short, careful test ride.

After the first ride:

• Recheck all mounting bolts.
• Check the rear brake for heat or drag.
• Confirm the brake-light switch still works.
• Look for any witness marks where controls, pipes or linkages may be touching.
• Recheck gear-lever adjustment.

Is the Slightly Angled Gear Linkage a Problem?

Usually, no.

The lowered footrest bracket moves the mounting point slightly outward as well as downward and rearward. That means the original shift rod no longer sits at exactly the same angle as it did from the factory.

In this installation, the linkage still operates properly and shifts cleanly.

A spacer or longer ball-joint arrangement can make the geometry more exact, but it is a refinement rather than a requirement.

The practical test is simple:

• Does the gear lever move smoothly?
• Is there no binding?
• Does every gear engage cleanly?
• Is the linkage clear of the frame and bracket?

If yes, the installation is doing its job.

Bottom Line

This is a proper comfort upgrade, not a cosmetic modification.

The lowering brackets give more leg room, preserve the original BMW footrests and make the R1100S significantly easier to enjoy on long rides.

The left side is simple: fit the bracket, refit the complete assembly at 21 Nm, then lengthen the gear linkage to suit.

The right side is equally straightforward on non-ABS bikes. On ABS-equipped bikes, allow extra time to carefully create clearance around the rigid rear brake pipe.

Do the installation carefully, adjust the controls properly, and the result looks almost factory.

That is exactly what an R1100S upgrade should do.